Showing posts with label shillong. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shillong. Show all posts

Monday, January 22, 2018

LOU: A SHORT STORY



My mentor in philosophy was the third Earl of Kingston, Bertie Russell, born  circa 1872, died 1970 oblivious of the ardent affiliation of mine. What he once wrote is relevant to our story here-“..between Theology and Science there lies a No Man’s Land…that’s Philosophy. Almost all questions of most interest to the speculative mind are such as Science cannot answer, and the confident answers of theologians no longer sound convincing...” The only improvement I have made upon his words consists in the capitalisation of initials of some important words that are carriers of significant concepts…

It was in bleak December, and Kong Beloris, my dear friend, and I  were lounging at Swish, Shillong’s most ancient café, waiting for the dense Meghalaya fog to run its course. Inside, it was 4 in the evening, and outside, a dark freezing midnight. Bah Tito Syiem, the Café Manager, carefully purring on a hot coffee while trotting back and forth, waited patiently for the fog and the two remaining occupants of the café to disperse. Kong Dr Beloris Lapang, D.Phil and I were sitting at our usual corner table, debating the longevity of Philosophy, the subject Kong taught at Shillong’s excellent University, NEHU, and Bah and Kong are not Khasi names, but merely honorifics sans which gentlemen and ladies respectively may not be addressed by you.

Kong Beloris was lamenting the exponential decline in admissions to her Faculty, seeking comfort in her approaching retirement from service. It was here that I dusted and delivered the quote that forms the substance of our first para. Kong, said I, theology and it’s surrogate, religion, are in retreat, their territory contracting by the day. Simultaneously the canvas of science expands as she conquers territory after territory. The scope for Philosophy is therefore that much less. That is why philosophy as a discipline has lost fecundity and vigour. A day has to come when the sum of annual admissions in your departments all over the country equates itself with the sum of retirements…only replacement demand would remain! That was certainly a prospect Kong failed to relish. I don’t expect such negative vibes about my subject from you, Carl, she said… pinching me in fun..

The to-and-fro metronome movement of Bah Tito had continued in the background.  All of a sudden Bah halted in his tracks, turned around, placed his coffee mug on the mantelpiece of the fireplace which hosted a crackling fire, rubbed his palms vigorously at the fringes of the fire, and thus replenished with warmth, approached our corner with his Lajong mug.  Do you mind if I joined you, asked Bah, and upon our nodding cordial assent, pulled a heavy teakwood chair.

Khublei shibun, said he, I was listening to your conversation with some attention, an act of mine which deserves your indulgence, for the mention of the word Philosophy floods my mind with the memories of the delicate Lenore, Lou for short, and Philosophy is the world where I seek solace when I try to come to terms with her existence. Is it some kind of third-party-existentialism I felt like asking, but the sun-and-shade of emotions that flitted across Bah Tito’s thick brow compelled me and Kong to let Bah continue uninterrupted. Umm.. he said, in that sense Philosophy which is perhaps a matter of theory for you, is for me an article or a contrivance of daily use, like a bed-spread or a fishing-rod you may say…Nevertheless, Bah Carl’s definition deals me a strange relief today, how and why, I shall presently explain…

Umm I can’t help but begin with Lou’s eyes, said Bah Tito, for they had- note the had- had a special sparkle that lent a peculiar glow to her beautiful face, which again, being a Khasi face, had a measure of strangeness in proportion that Blaise Pascal would have commended- or was it Poe, or umm Poe quoting someone in...Eleonora?  Lou’s face had a high recall quotient on account of her special eyes, and like beams of light emanating from a car’s headlight they shone.  She was my youngest sister, 15 years in between, and when I went to fetch her, as a little girl, from the Laitumkrah bus-drop, I would locate her easily in the cramped Loreto school-van from a mischievous gleam of eyes sitting in a corner, brimming with joie de verve and an irrepressible curiosity about the world in general..

Well, umm, Lou was the beloved of the household, and as you must have guessed, she was the family’s khadduh- the youngest daughter, the inheritor of the family’s wealth. Ka khadduh, amongst Khasis, is the family darling, not for any motive, but it is a fact, simply stated, that ka khadduh is the recipient of much inquisitiveness and adoration, and Lou was such a source of delight!

She grew like the phases of the moon, blossoming into an exquisite beauty, tall, delicate, and boys would sway when she walked down the undulating streets of Shillong, on her high stilettos as only a Khasi girl can. Bright at school, she was, and the Shillong Choir would sound incomplete without her. In short, a daughter or sister to treasure, cynosure of all eyes wherever she went! A beautiful and fulfilling future awaited her expectantly...

She had just turned 18 when that year’s Nongkrem arrived, the Khasi thanksgiving festival celebrated at Smit in early winter, after the harvest, where the sacrificial goats are offered to the Gods, and where Khasi virgins and boys congregate, to dance in the steppe-like fields, scattering the golden hue of pure Khasi gold ornaments and crowns to the skies, to the entrancing accompaniment of drums and pipes...

Then it happened. We lost Lou. She disappeared...simply vanished from the face of this earth as it were, leaving no physical token of existence! Her friends saw her last at the altar of Ka Pah Syntiew, on the fifth day of the festival. Frantic messages went out to the head-men, the Lyngdohs, the Syiems...We combed the whole of Khasi hills for her, from the heights of the Nohkalikai Falls, to the depths of Dawki, to the wilderness of the Mawplang forest, where for 2 whole days in a feverish trance we negotiated the arms of the castanopsises and the pinus kasia, swaying and whistling wildly to the angry winds, side-stepping the poisonous cobra-lilies, ferns and pipers that inhabit Lou’s beloved sacred forest. We then remembered her obsession with Nohkalikai…

Here I blurted out something which I quickly realised was wholly misplaced, even as I intoned my last word.. “ but what did the police..welll.. say”? Bah Tito gaped at me, his mouth struck open and the only word there spoken by Kong was the whispered word “Carl”, Kong Beloris looking at me half in disbelief, half in amusement…a Khasi will rarely, if ever, approach the  police force over family matters unless he’s sure that an outsider was involved...

..and..continued Bah without allowing the sombreness of the narrative to flag...do you know how the tallest waterfall in the world got it’s name? Poor Ka Likai had jumped in anger and grief from the Sohra hill- that’s where the Noh comes from- when she saw the severed fingers of her child! So..I even checked the green plunge-pool half a mile below for our girl, to rule out the possibility of Likai having permeated Lou’s mind..umm..

Now you know Sir what it is to try to come to terms with someone’s existence! One day my dear child occupied the whole length and breadth of my world, and the next day she was gone! Mamma and Papa were of course disconsolate. They waited in vain all the time watching from our terrace the winding road that leads from Laitumkrah to our abode in Lummawrie. Umm..Mamma visited various churches and must have sacrificed at the very least a hundred roosters. Mamma  hosted many a Khasi ritual, the chief being the Egg Oracle, where the priest invokes the supreme God U Blei Nongthaw, breaks an egg, and from the way the shell crumbles tries to divine His command. By all indications she was very much alive and happy, so they said! How could she be happy away from her family..duh...!Much as I wanted to share my parents’ plebeian hopes, in the heart of hearts I feared the worst, though I must confess I would see the likeness of Lou in every girl approaching from a distance. Philosophy was my only succour and solace. Why did Lou go away? Ka tyrut? Khasi philosophy never attributes a mortal departure to the will of God- the machinations of the vicious spirit ka tyrut are believed to be behind every mortal event...and...

Umm.. Bah Tito paused, apparently in order to compose his philosophical interpretation of the events, and also to allow the lump in his throat to retreat....

”Strange are the ways of fate” I mused absently.

Well well, strictly speaking, we Khasis don’t believe in the way the Christian religion treats the concept of Fate, Carl, said Kong Beloris, looking kind of askance at me. Bah Tito nodded vigorously, for none other than NEHU’s Philosophy department seemed to be certifying his world-view..ka kambhah kambynta we call it, said Kong..and before she could elaborate, Bah, being better prepared thanks to Lou, jumped the gun..Ka kambhah kambynta said Bah Tito defines the way Fate is supposed to operate. The unborn child in her mother’s womb is confronted by ka Lei Synshar, our equivalent of the Hindi Brahma, with various kinds of fate and the embryo has to choose one, failing which she or he will remain still-born. How and why had Lou chosen to disappear? That was the question which we asked ourselves...

…Outside Swish the weather was worsening, as further reinforcements of fog arrived from the heights of Laitkor...Bah Tito’s mystery took on further lease of life..

Umm..said Bah years passed, the world went on and did what Father Marbaniang pompously says- is it not ‘ tempus edax rerum’  Kong? Tempus edax rerum...to be sure..Time heals, but when..?

Umm…about three years after the unfortunate events, I happened to be in Calcutta. All said and done, in spite of the emergence of Gauhati, Calcutta still remains the umbilical cord that connects the north-east to the mainland...Umm…I had gone to have a look at a second-hand frigidaire..there it lies in the corner... the skies were overcast just like today, I had taken a morning-walk  in the Maidan and was crossing the main-road near Grand, when I saw a well-dressed girl emerge from the Hotel, and she..was it Lou...? I missed a thousand heart-beats- the same stiletto-balancing walk, the same profile and...”Lou” I yelled in spite of myself, keeping my best manners under animated suspension. The girl froze, turned around, yes she was Lou indeed, the same shining eyes, the same tall forehead, same garden-fresh complexion...a bit taller…she had in the meantime covered her cheeks with her two palms like the figure in that scream painting and exclaimed, to my surprise, “Dada”, which is how they address an elder brother in Bengal. She regarded me most cordially and with affection, as the whole of Chowringhee spun around me, and conscious of the explosive potential of the situation, she hurriedly came across, held my hand, and promised to explain to me everything once we reached her home in Behala.

We clambered onto a rumbling tram, found seating easily, moving as we were against the morning traffic, and looking out of the window I sat, the montage of the past three years playing fitfully before me like an old movie print. Calcutta was the only place in the world where such dénouement could have unfolded…I consoled myself..

Umm..Lou was shaking nervously. We alighted at the Behala Chowrasta and reached her home, on the second floor of a decorous building behind the Museum. There was no one inside, seemed she stayed alone. The ambience bore the stamp of style and affluence, to my great relief. It was unusually cold for Calcutta and Lou was shivering. Bah Tito she asked, of course you have not given up smoking, let me get a pack of cigarettes for you, there is a pan-shop across the street, she picked up her purse and slid into the winding staircase.

I looked around the small house , it was neatly kept, as could be expected of Lou. The memorabilia in the showcase evidenced a trip to South East Asia, with those merlions and red-dragon images. A guitar hung beside the dresser in her bed-room. Good, there was a picture of the Christ, which bore uncanny likeness to the one back in our Shillong home, how this thing called habit works, I mused. I ventured into the little balcony. It overlooked the pan-shop Lou spoke about. I looked around but failed to spot our Lou wearing the red T-shirt with the number 10 on the back I had noticed when I last saw her hurry down the stairs…

And that was also the last I had seen of her. The elements had again played truant, and Lou had vanished. She never came back with the promised pack of Four Square.

We sat in stunned silence, I and possibly Kong, trying in our minds to apportion blame for the lost resurrection. I sighed, and just to relieve Bah Tito of the sheer burden of misery that overtook his weather-beaten face, reminded him of his resolve to explain the relevance of our Quote here, how it could provide poetic relief to him.

Umm.. said Bah Tito, you talked about the no-man’s- land between religion and science, did you not? As I realise, the hand of dark-forces stands ruled out by the fact of Lou’s reappearance. The territory of the known expands thereby, and thence I derive peace and quiet…but Philosophy will always be there for me…my bed and fishing-rod!

Sunday, March 9, 2014

BEING PANDITA MALINITAI

वाय गोपाळकृष्ण "इंद्रायणीकाठी" ह्या ब्लॉग चे प्रेरक … मूळतः हा ब्लॉग शास्त्रीय संगीता बद्धल सौ (शास्त्रीय गायिका ) आणि लेखक (dabbler ) ह्यांच्या संवादां   बद्धल असे- इंग्रजीत … ही संभाषणे गुवाहाटी शिलॉंग Highway NH ४० वर शनिवारी होत , आमची राजधानी weekend करिता मेघालय ला हलवतांना …. आईंच्या आग्रहा वरून त्यात मराठी ची भर पडली, आणि हिरव्या चाफ्या च्या शोधांत आम्ही निघालो! मुद्दा  असा, कि संगीताच्या मार्गा वरून भटक्ल्यास गोपाळ हिरमुसतात, म्हणून आज मराठी blog वर तेच प्रयोग करून पहिला, and transplanted the sapling to the English blog, he, he, he  …!

असो! नगाम्पु कुकी- आमचे ex-Army वाहन चालक, तैयार, Scorpio चा AUX stereo-pin ला connect करून ! नेहमी च्या सवयी प्रमाणे पहिले गाणे ''छा गये बादल नील गगन पर ''- निझामुद्दीन खान च्या वेड  लावणाऱ्या तबल्या करता, तद्नंतर मालिनी ताईंचा वेड लावणारा   चारुकेशी -ना वक्त कि सीमा, ना समय का बंधन …. आणि शेवटी- नया-बंगला सोडता-क्षणी- main course-ताईंचा मारवा/मालकौंस/सोहनी Lummawrie, Laitumkrah ला मध्यरात्री घरी पोहोचत पर्यंत ताई नेमकं शेवट ची तिहाई घेतांत -she is so systematic , you know -गणितज्ञ आहेत त्या …! आणि ज्या प्रमाणे आम्हां सर्वांना NH  ४० ची वळणोन-वळणे ठावुक आहेत, त्याच प्रमाणे त्या जादुई रचनांचे काने -कोपरे-लागे-बांधे सुध्धा … कारण जर आम्ही ह्या रस्त्या वर 'x' दा फिरकलो आहोत, तर (k+x) वेळा बंदिशांचे श्रवण केलेले …व्हेयर  'k' इज अ पॉझिटिव इंटिग्रल कॉन्स्टंट आणि 'x',  अ व्हैरिएबल   … 

आजचे मुद्दे थोडक्यात असे

(i) Youtube वर ताईंची भेट कृपया ऐकावी … artiste चे संगतकारांशी संबंध … कसे प्रेमाचे असावेत …

मालकौंस ऐकतांना आज आम्ही पेटी आणि तबल्या वर ध्यान केंद्रित करतो .…. बहुदा पं. थत्ते आणि पं. कामत असावेत … काय पण सुरेख ती पेटी …
UNBELIEVABLE FEATHER TOUCH



संतांनी सांगितले, आणि आपण सर्वांनी हे अनुभविले … जगात दोनच prime movers आहेत नाहीकां …? प्रेम आणि भीति … Love -Fear. . ? Recital मध्ये you can promote an unhealthy competitiveness…  that is antagonism …Fear …  the sort डांबरट Hairy Harry and Her Highness do  …  or it  could be goodwill amongst all men (which includes women, he, he …)

आमच्या सौं च्या मतां-प्रमाणे ताईंच्या ह्या मालकौंसात संगतकारांने सुद्धा अत्योच्च असे शिखर गाठले . Motivated संगतकार  संपूर्ण अनुभवाला एका अनोख्या पातळी वर नेवू शकतात… थत्ते किंवा वळवलकरां सारखे संगतकार … ते गुणवत्ते चे एक safety net- अगदी सर्कशी सारखे … निर्मीत करतात, ज्याच्या खाली main कलाकार घसरू शकत नाही … शेवटी vocal मध्ये team -work असणे सुखाचेच नाही का? मोठ मोठे कलाकार आपण notice करतो … पंडित भीमसेन असो वा  मालिनीताई … आपल्या तल्लीनतेत संगतकारानशीच स्मितहास्य करतात, audience शी नव्हे … ताईंच्या मालकौंसात तर ताईंने चक्कं दोघा संगतकारांना आपसात सवाल जवाब करण्याची संधी हि दिलेली !

ह्या प्रेमळ माहौल मुळेच ताईंचे recital is different ….ताई is different … आप सौ साल और  गायें…. ! 

(ii) पंडित भीमसेन हे एकदम मौलिक व्यक्तित्व …. original… left no photo-copies behind … only one or two smudgy carbon-copies … प्रश्ण असा कि का बऱ्याचदा सबंध बंदिशी-च्या-बंदिशी त्यांने एखाद्या अभंगा भोवती विणल्या?  उदा. अणुरेणिया थोकडा ( पुन्हा मालकौंस ) चे संपूर्ण version , जे त्यांने UK मध्ये माता निर्मला देवी (हरीश साळवे ह्यांच्या सख्या आत्याबाई) ह्यांच्या उपस्थितीत म्हंटले …किंवा  तीर्थ विठ्ठलं क्षेत्र विठ्ठलं… (अहीर भैरव- १९७५ चे सवाई गंधर्व, पुणे)

पंडितजी रसिकराज, आणि एका प्रस्तुतीत वेगवेगळे घटक अर्थात elements महत्वाचे असतात- राग प्रकृति, काळ-वेळ, शब्द, भाव, felicity, style, इ. -हे त्यांना प्रकर्षाने  जाणवत …. असे आम्ही १२ वर्ष पूर्वी इंदूर येथे green-room मध्ये झालेल्या चर्चेत त्यांच्या तोंडून ऐकले. त्यामुळे त्यांने सास-ननदिया-सौतन-पनघट च्या रटाळ रंगांच्या शिवाय अनेकोनेक इंद्रधनुषी असे रंग प्रचुर मात्रेत वापरले- सास-ननद की नसीहात से बगावत म्हणायची!…मागे असेच काही पंडित जसराज अमीर खुसरो च्या वारसा पलिकडे जायला हवे, असं बोलले होते … जसराज ही शब्दयुति चे master आहेतंच … 

On the lighter side,… freakonomic करण असे, chemically induced तंद्रीत सहजच कलाकार रस्ता विसरेल, तेंह्वा भरपूर direction signboards हवेत, आणि ते सहज प्रदान करंत अभंगांचे शब्द आणि भाव…! no disrespect meant हं! 

मागे मी पंडितजींच्या हाव-भावांवर इंग्रजी ब्लॉग मध्ये काही लिहिले, ते असे… Secret Weapons of Pandit Bhimsen Joshi 

Monday, November 4, 2013

Nature's Dividend on Shillong Streets


Born in 1893 as Kedarnath Pandey, he is called the Father of Hindi Travel Literature, and he became a Buddhist monk who preached Marxism. Who was he? Tick one

A.    Rahul Sankrityayan   O
B.   Rahul Sankrityayan   O
C.    Rahul Sankrityayan   O
D.    Rahul Sankrityayan   O

We have given a small hint, the question being so challenging, he, he, he…

Sankrityayan patiently explained the theories of Marx to peasants and workers,  and ‘Marx’ in his Hindi annals, was christened ‘मर्कस  बाबा ’. The cake is taken by the elegant term invented for 'dictatorship of the proletariat': 'सर्वहारा की  तानाशाही' ...

Sometime in the past, India boasted of intellectuals who exercised their minds in order to validate foreign philosophies, in local contexts. YT happens to be in the service of the Chabiwala Bank, or the BTN, and it seems that the taks now been left to bank clerks by the India  intelligentsia..whew…whattataaks…

Our Bank has been patting on it’s back for pioneering the Banking thrust in the North East. 50% market-share… अब बताएं काइतना मुबारक है ये सौदा ? We receive compliments from various quarters most emphatic being the 7 Governments, which warm the cockles of our hearts, par ek uljhan hai jo aksar mujhe tadapti hai...where do this efforts belong in the Marxian Matrix..…? Are we compradors, espousing blatantly the cause of Capitalism, out to exploit the tribal populace, aiding and abetting the rape of nature?

This Marxian bee has been there in our bonnet from the time we permitted ₭ to capture part of our mind’s Siachin, in 1973. AD, obviously he, he, he…. It has become part of the Standard Operating Procedure of what YT calls his mind… to squint every idea through the Marxian lens, before accepting it for further resolution. The least insane voice in this cacophony of the 21st century in that of Marxism, to the blinkered eyes of YT. Good news is that Marxian Literature yields no pennant or streamer for this North Eastern issue, it’s Naga-neutral, if you know… The general sweep in the context of banking in Marxian Prophesy is as follows:

“Owners of capital will stimulate the working class to buy more and more of expensive goods, houses and technology, pushing them to take more and more expensive credits, until their debt becomes unbearable. The unpaid debt will lead to bankruptcy of banks, which will have to be nationalized, and the State will have to take the road which will eventually lead to communism.” (Das Kapital).

While independently this holds water, there is not much said in the Tribal context, and therefore YT can continue to be guided by his heart, and glory in the BTN being Banking evangelist to the North East…Hurrrrayyyyy…!!

NATURE’S BOUNTY:

Man overpowering Nature, is the flavour of the day. How China tamed the Five Gorges, for instance. शिका ज़रा चीन कडुन ...is one refrain. Carl, being spiritually a North-Easterner, believes in the opposite. The Nature-Man see-saw…let’s see how well the North East has fared here.

In the early nineties, the 7-sister states accounted for 25% of the country’s forest area, and half of the country’s timber trade. Here is what the well-known Bangalore Citizens’ initiative Indiatogether.org says about the situation then:

Prior to the Supreme Courts intervention, the north eastern region with only 7% of the land area was accounting for over 60% of the timber supplied. Many of the traditional systems of forest management could not cope with huge market demands. Uncountable number of saw mills operated in remote tribal areas most often under dejure tribal ownership and in actuality controlled by non tribals/non locals (ahem…Marwaris). In order to meet the burgeoning requirement of timber, virgin natural forests were being stripped bare.


The said electronic publication of course refers to the path-breaking PIL case T. N Godavarman Thirumulpad Vs Union of India (W.P 202 of 1995), the landmark judgement to which imposed a ban on felling trees, redefined ‘forest land’, and mandated setting up of various environmental bodies.. After that came the 1998 ruling which made accountable the Autonomous District Councils created under Schedule VI which confers special status on the NE states. It was subsequently argued that, unable to get higher value for their timber consequent to the crack-down, the tribals are simply consigning the timber to low end uses like firewood or just jhumming away forests. The Government then sought to counter the objections through the Scheduled Tribes and Other Traditional Forest Dwellers (Recognition of Forest Rights) Act, 2006, implemented in 2008 after a flurry of protests….whew…whattataaks…!

So howdy the Nature Man balance in the North East? The mota-moti thumb rule we developed gives full marks to the North East and goje like thisss:

If the business of food is not fully commercialised, you can say that the scale tilts in favour of Mother Nature. To elaborate, if the man on the street is able to pluck freely mangoes or pears or leafy vegetable on his way home, it is implied that human greed or human machinations have not overtaken nature’s bounty, and mankind has consumed what was its need, leaving the rest hanging on the trees, as live vegetation. In Shillong for instance, you’ll come across little piles of pears on window sills and ledges, good-naturedly gathered by pedestrians for consumption of passers-by, lest the fruit be crushed by wayward feet. Here is our pictorial journey through our beloved Meghalaya, mostly captured by the camera of Nacheez:

NATURE'S SURPLUS




YOU'VE NOT SEEN SHILLONG UNLESS YOU HAVE STAYED THERE THROUGH THE FOUR SEASONS: SHE WEARS DIFFERENT VEILS:
CHERRY BLOOM ACROSS BANK HOUSE ON LACHUMEIRE


THEN PEAR

SUMMERS OF CASIA






SAME HOME, DIFFERENT DAYS

MISSUS IN PITCHER PLANT COUNTRY MAWSYNRAM

PITCHER PLANTS THAT DEVOUR INSECTS: NEVER THOUGHT WE'D SEE ONE


SEA FOSSILS OF MAWSYNRAM

SHEMPHANGS OF MAWSYNRAM: DECLINED FEE
YT AT WARD'S LAKE


PROUD MOM WITH SON: DIWALI @ SHILLONG
@ PINEWOOD 

Saturday, December 24, 2011

BANDE MEIN THA DUM

"Hum jahan khade hotey hain line wahin se shuru hoti hai"

The Yuletide spirit is upon us. Descends like wafting snow-flakes. Somehow, by a quirk, or conspiracy, or a happy happenstance, of fate, we are in Shillong on the eve of Christmas 2011 and beyond. We celebrate. If our calendar commences from the date of His birth, why is not the birthday of the Christ on the 1st of the year I sayyy…???, so we aks. Missus has no answer. It’s complicated, we confess.

This is the first time we are is a Christian part of the country @ Christmas, and we rejoice. 57 years is a pretty long time taken to implement, have a tryst with, the hymns and carols we learnt as kids in the very British school of ours, in good old Delhi, maaan…!

Kong Bina invites us to be a part of the Christmas celebration at the Laitumkrah ( t silent) branch of Chabiwala Bank. The audience at the gathering, YF included, are surprised at our felicity at carols, inspite the you-know-what-we-got….! Smooth. A breeze! A number of insights, here. Naomi, the Chaplin of the gathering, describes the child that was Jesus that day. Okkay, we realize, the Christmas sentiment has a lot to do with infancy, and the embodiment of an endearing child. Intimately woven. The vision of the child Christ is a prime mover.

It’s infectious. On 22nd, our Khasi neighbours are scrubbing the streets with enthu and single-minded ‘purposefulness’. The word seems okay, MS Word does not throw up a censorious red underline (does not ‘flag’ it, in Chabiwala Bank lingo), he,he,he!

Streets are brimming with X’mas spirit. We walk for a year and half, sorry, hour and half, soaking ittt in. First the Don Bosco Church, then the tableaus of the child in the stable.

Back in Lummawarie, our current home. How do we celebrate? We prepare an eclectic music list and input it into VLC media player. Includes Tequila, and Mohd. Rafi, and The Ventures, and Ustad Amir Khan etc.etc.etc.etc., etc. To ensure an effervescent and non-serious Christmas eve. But then the choice falls short of the expectations. We are beyond redemption. Of course, we miss Pt. Bhimsen Joshi and his booming, cerebral, looong tans! Pronto, we launch into Youtube, and pick two compositions, Nayaki Kanada in Bageshri ang, and Marwa. “Guru bina gyaana…” the same one that Ustad Amir Khan sang, and earned kudos from none other than Bharat Ratna Pt. Ravi Shankar.

Panditji just swallows us uppp. It was in the bleak December, rather January 2011 to be precise, that we heard shocked Senior call on the cell and tell us that Panditji was no more! Of course, it was on the cards, but so soon?! We inform Goutam and Oniruddha. They are devastated. Bengalis were, and that stems from that unfortunate night of 1985?. Dileep Padgaonkar described it in his obituary as under:

“He (Panditji) liked, for example, to recall his concerts in Kolkata for in no other city, not even Pune, was the audience so enamoured of his music. Once, when he was inebriated and couldn't bring himself to sing a single note despite two attempts interspersed with some sleep and cold-water baths, the audience turned more and more restless. No one broke chairs, hurled stones or tried to set the premises on fire. Instead, many in the audience, feeling let down, broke into uncontrollable sobs. Some banged their heads against the wall to express their anguish. The organisers of the event, dazed by what they witnessed, could only mutter one word: Chomotkar! (A miracle!)”

Goutam was there- present at the concert, for the record. Oniruddha says “: ekhon ekta Josraaj, naa Kishori o, thakbo, emongg the all time greats.” Robida too, we remind him.

So… we tuned to the qaatil Marwa taans. Missus hums Ḿa Ṟe Sa, the typical Marwa swara-samooha! The tabla plays a rhythmic ektaal, theka style, not in the meretricious style of the Hairy One. We propose a theory to Missus. The relaxed and measured beat leaves space for the principal artiste to improvise, whereas the convoluted styles kill the germ of musical thought. We are pleased to report that Missus agrees.

Panditji was Panditji. We throw ideas at Madam. A note here and there will miss the bulls eye, but even that appears endearing. That’s the power of context, I saayyy…!

Panditji unbuttons his kurta as he unwinds. That was another hallmark gesture of his, vouches Youtube, when the sweat, a consequence of grappling, wrestler-‘pehlwaan’ like with taans, got the better of him. Panditji always had a penchant for the strangest, outragiest, and funniest of gestures. We recall attending a concert accompanying N.H.Kulkarni of National Archives, and Dad, when we were around ten. Dad protested, but Narayan Rao retorted, had I sung that well, I would have made even more outrageous gestures. The fact remains that his concerts were a visual delight. Enthralling. We download some music in MP3 form, and some in MP4 form, and the latter we always do in the case of Panditji’s music.

Ata tyanchya badhhal mee adnyani kaay mhanu…?! What about something off-beat? Freakonomic?

Panditji was not, we suspect, a Planner and Schemer. Jasraj compositions appear well thought of and masterfully crafted… so to say. Same for Vasantrao Deshpande. Same for Kishoritai, he,he,he… as if she is my sister-in-law! In the case of Panditji, he seemed to follow his intuition, strengthened by the elaborate riyaaz of his gharana, Kirana. The celebrated taans appear to surface as if they’d permanently resided in Nature, and were ‘discovered’ by him, not ‘invented’. And what taans, boy o boy!

Two examples of fantastic, but ‘invented’, or designer taans here:

Vada jaavu kunala sharana ga” by Asha Khadilkar (with a crazy keherwa), and “Mi punha wanantari…” by Jyotsna Bhole. Classics!



Planners and non-Planners. The Planners will tend to be good teachers. They will establish schools and incubate artistes, while the non-Planners, Kumar Gandharva included, leave posterity gasping! In fact, they keep teaching themselves rather than others, and thereby create divine music!

But then Panditji was quite articulate. Artistes often aren’t. That Left Brain vs, Right Brain stuff. Had a way with words, and used them economically, and to effect. As is known, he was an expert at car driving, and he learnt driving when a novice driver landed their car at the bottom of a ,thank God, shallowish ravine. I then learnt driving, he said, because “it’s better to meet your end as a result of your own folly, rather than someone else’s!”

How soulfully he sang! Just listen to ‘Raajasa Sukumar’, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpvwVVKwLiE a rare abhang in Shivranjani, set to music by none other than Khale Kaka. Pt. Srinivas Khale, rarest of the rare, who again departed in 2011. And remember “mile sur mera tumhara”? Turn to


for another interesting anecdote.

Finally, to justify our title, an excerpt from the obituary in The Hindu by Partha Chatterji:

“He was always his own man. During the Emergency (1975-1977), when many artists and intellectuals were bending over backwards to please the government, he did not think it necessary to toe the line. It was at that time that he was awarded the Sangeet Natak Akademi Award and came to Delhi to receive it. I remember Bhimsenji asking me for a cigarette and responding thus to my felicitation for the concert that was about to begin: “ Khaak gayenge gaana iss Emergency mein (What kind of music do you expect during this Emergency)?”

It is often said that you become what your name suggests, and Islam a lot to say on this aspect of one's personality.  We thank the mother who gave the name Bhimsen to Panditji..

FREAKONOMICS:

There was a spate of burglaries in our area. Mom hired a chowkidar within her limited means. He happens to be ‘visually and auditorily challenged”. We expected our building to be a target of the miscreants, yet we remained, touch wood, safe.

Our explanation goes thus: our man hails from the same sections as some of these miscreants. To violate his turf would mean exposing a fellow-being to police excesses, and will be socially unacceptable.. Hence the mercy upon us.



Friday, September 30, 2011

FIREFLIES!

We embarked on the task of writing travelogues with some fanfare last month and with trepidation sought the views of our better-half on the first venture. She echoed what Queen Victoria famously said. Mince, yes, “we are not amused.” Flatttt said she, like a flat beer. There is no reportage of a journey, she objects. Touche!- but, but, dear, we are aware of that!

What’s IndrayaniKaathi about, we explain to missus. Well for one, it’s about taking an odd view of things. The joy of discovery. Being original. Being consciously unconventional. About seeking the real real explanation behind the seemingly inexplicable, debunking fake explanations. Getting to the root of roots. And that’s a habit with us, burden of our life’s song, even before we blogged.

ODD VIEWS: STATUE OF
GEN. SAM HOUSTON IN KEN.,TEXAS













You’ll find the genre at work in ‘Freakonomics’ by Steven D. Levitt and Stephen J. Dubner or ‘Tipping Point’ by Malcolm Gladwell. The Economist, in one of their book reviews, gives a flavour of Freakonomics, if you have not already sampled it:

Levitt traces the drop in violent crime rates (1980s New York) to a drop in violent criminals and, digging further, to the Roe v. Wade decision that ‘preempted the existence’ of some people who would be born to poverty and hardship ( in the Roe v. Wade judgement, the US Supreme Court had struck down many state laws that restricted abortions). Elsewhere, by analyzing data gathered ( incidentally, a Tamilian did the gathering) from inner-city Chicago drug-dealing gangs, Levitt outlines a corporate structure much like McDonald's, where the top bosses make great money while scores of underlings make something below minimum wage.

We also have some profoouunnd taiikes to our credit:

Scha•den•freu•de/ˈSHädənˌfroidə/ :Noun: Pleasure derived by someone from another person's misfortune. (It has an equivalent in sanskrit- ‘vighnasantosh’. )

The phenomenon is embarassing and difficult to explain. The ‘extant’ explanations are insuffucient. Everybody has it, in varying degree, though few may admit it. In our view, the explanation lies in good old ‘survival of the fittest’. Someone else’s misfortune is good tidings for the rest of us, for it places more resources at our disposal, and thus enhances the chances of our own survival, hence the other’s misfortune warms the cockles of our hearts. Of course the context and the setting is pre-historic, when there was that much more pressure on resources but the feeling perhaps got etched onto human genes, lasting to this day. That’s the freakonomic explanation based on results from the mental lab of YF.

So, man, that’s the spirit behind the blog. But now, for a conventional travelogue. With visual content. Starts on our first evening in the NE, that is in Guwahati, as we land safely. Dropped into the lap of nature, fortutiously. Ahem....it’s January and the outside temperature is 27 degrees, thanks for flying with us, and darkness is descending on the airfield like wafting snow-flakes.

Our first quest as we step out of the Lokopriya Bordolai International Airport is a placard with the Chabiwala mono, and on it, our name duly mis-spelt and mutilated. There it is, with a smiling, welcoming face behind it. Akshay or Okhkhoy is our introduction to the NE.The rehnuma. He’s the best driver we were blessed with in all these years. Takes his responsibilities as a friend and guide seriously. Protective, most of all, which impresses missus to no end. He’s mature and intelligent. In the NE you are identified by your tribe or non-tribe, there are so many of them, and they mean a lot. Akshay is an Ahom, that is the tribe which gave this name to Assam..

We ease ourselves into the back seat of Akshay's dapper, silver blue Accent. It’s 4.30 PM and it’s as dark as 7.00 PM in say, the Delhi winter. Missus, who is an old NE hand always wistfully told us how Guwahati, formerly Gauhati, felt, nestled in the middle of mountains. We don’t see any of the hills, and tease the lady for being so forgetful. Memory plays tricks, heyyyy...comm....onn yaaar. It turns out that the airport’s location which is outside of the valleys, has misled us, and not memory. The lady is a genius. The hills loom large before you once you are beyond the University. You discern the hills even in the dark, inhale the dense leafy verdure. No lights on those pristine hills, they’re uninhabited.

Akshay is expatiating on the Brahmaputra. He is talking basically in Hindi but you have to strain your ears and lip-read to recognise the words. Anyway our Bangla and ergo Assamese, Ohomese, is tolerably good. Sirrrrr, Brahmaputra is the only male river anywhere. The longest bridge spans the river sixteen kms wide. In the rains it spreads to 100 miles and gobbles up large territories. Majauli island is a protected eco-system in the middle of the river and is getting eroded fast, so we have to visit Majauli as soon as possible. Then he reels out the names of temples in and around the Brahmaputra. We’ll visit Dhaul Gobind this Sunday, he promises.

Akshay drops us at our Guest House which is tolerably good and says no to tips. We are quite excited and missus is dying to step out. It’s 6.00 PM and pitch dark outside. We cross the lane and then behold in the bushes a beaauutiful spectacle which we witnessed regularly as kids, aeons ago, in the woods behind Thakkar Bappa Sadan, Link Road, New Delhi-5, the venue of the annual Ganeshotsav, or in the thick vegetation in the Pusa Institute. Fireflies! A swarm of twinkling fireflies! We thought they had vanished from the face of earth! Fast-forward, and, we are greeted by them in Mizoram, in Manipur, in Itanagar, every-where! That vision becomes our motif for the NE, like the MGM lion. A surrogate for the North East, so to sayyy!

To us, fireflies are the touch-stone of the ideal man-nature balance. Who doesn’t remember collecting fireflies in match-boxes, plastic cases and capturing them in your shirt pockets by the night, the shiny, innocent little things! Here’s to nostalgia!

Fireflies belong to the Lampyridae family of insects in the beetle order Coleoptera. http://www.firefly.org/why-are-fireflies-disappearing.html poignantly tells you all about the tragic, gradual, disappearance of many of their species from the human canvas. The culprits are the destruction of their habitat, which is the moist and dense vegetation, supplying organic decaying food to them, and the city lights, which inhibit their reproduction. Jugnu, thay are called in National Language. Kaajwe in marathi.

Rewind. We decide pay obesiance to the deity of the bismillah, Lord Ganesa and the temple is right accross the street. Temples, though not architecturally remarkable, are a delightful sight adorning the Assam night. Devotees, after doing the offering, will invariably light earthenware diyas outside the temple and you can imagine how beautiful the sight is, with hundreds of lamps shimmering and fluttering, creating a soft yellow ambience, scattering the light in a halo around the temple! The two of us follow suit and lighting diyas in collaboration gives a great feeling of togetherness.

Next we decide to take a stroll along the GS Road- Guwahati-Shillong Road. We spot the Assam Secretariat buildings, with their authentic Assamese architecture. How graceful! the two of us exclaim in rare unison. And then from the walk in the clouds, we descend to the earth with a thud. We are startled to see the ungainly under-belly of the North East. The threatened peace. The ubiquitous para military commandos. Just look at their heavy armoury. No weapon below the calibre of an SLR! Later we learn the security forces are the last resort of the unemployed in the NE-- and the mainstay as well as bane of Chabiwala Bank, a loan scheme formulated for Govt. employees. Missus being missus leads the Maratha army unto a hasty retreat.

Boss next day suggets we take a trip to Shillong, for the 5 smaller states are likely to be our beat. Meghalaya, Nagaland, Mizoram, Manipur, Tripura. As we plan for next day’s departure, Akshay somehow smells our laziness and cautiously magnifies the estimated journey time to Shillong. You have to start by 6.00 AM so as to reach the branches by opening time, 10.00. Hmmm....Akshay seems to be blossoming into a Jeeves. Madam, eternal fixer, fixes 5.30 for bed-tea. By 8.00, a sleepy YF crawls into the back seat of the purring Accent. Mam has packed baggage for three days. Time for Akshay uwaach.

Sirrrr, first there was only Assam. Then various tribal aspirations materialised, and Assam spawned Arunachal, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland and Tripura, not necessarily in that order, but in alpabhetical order nevertheless.

Sirrrr, Meghalaya where we are going today consists of three hills, the Khasi Hills, the Garo Hills, and the Jaintia Hills, names derived from the indigenous tribes. After we take a turn southwards along Jorabat-Shillong Road, one side of the road is Assam, and the other, Meghalaya. You’ll find rows of liquor shops and petrol bunks on the Meghalaya side, for there are no commercial taxes in the 5 tribal states. Half of Guwahati shops for liquor at those vends. A right turn and you are suddenly in the middle of the stunning sub-Himalayan ranges. The mountains here are covered with thick thick vegetation, which is mainly teak in these regions. “Iddur aapko koi cheeriya deekta hai? Naiiii...kyunkeee- o kha gaya, ha,ha,ha..!” As we earlier mused, humans are integrated into the food chain in the North East. Not at the receiving end, obviously.

Shillong, Pine city, Scotland of the East, laced northwards by the huge blue shimmering body of water called the Umiam Lake, and southwards by Cherrapunji hills, is another romantic story to be told some other day and we wrap up with a delightful glimpse of our man Okhkhoy.

In Shillong we are put up at the ‘OTC’ or ‘Officers’ Transit Camp’ which is a charming 5-storeyed wooden heritage affair. We retire around 8 PM, which is 11 PM by sub-continent standards. It’s bitterly cold and there is not a soul in sight on the winding streets. Suddenly the pang of being stranded without a bottle of liquor near stabs us in the heart. Sears it. Stuppidd we mutter and start scheming the procurement of a bottle. Deja vu, our plight is identical with the plight of that boss in the delightful old marathi movie called ‘Brandy chi baatli’, where boss has to send out a simpleton of a subordinate on a nocturnal mission to get a bottle of brandy.

We missed-call Akshay. He appears in a jiffy. Well, well, how to thrust such a coarse task on a subordinate on the very first day of your acquaintance, we wonder. Baaad...But we are helpless. Ahemmm....we tell him...yaaaar... it’s very very cold and as a precaution we must have a bottle of brandy with us, here is a five hundred rupee note. Akshay nods in sympathy and takes off. Fifteen minutes, and there’s a tap on the door. Akshay’s grave face appears between the panels of the door, and he thrusts a bottle of McDowells’ Signature whiskey and a lagre pack of potato wafers into our hands, and bemused and delighted to no end, we ask him to keep the change. Yeyyyy...! Jeeves reincarnated!

Tailpiece:
Another take on the use of the first person plural in place of the first person singular. Here is what an authoritative commentator has to say referring to what Maggie Thatcher reputedly said in 1989 when she got her first grandson, of course courtesy her son. “We have become a grandmother.”

“The use of the 'royal we' (the 'pluralis majestatis' or 'majestic plural') had previously been restricted, as one might expect, to royalty. For example, Queen Victoria's celebrated 'we are not amused'. Its use by a mere prime minister and Thatcher's imperious personal manner were the source of considerable disdain at the time. Thatcher's apparent conceit led to her being described as 'a legend in her own imagination'.”

Well, let us assure you that we do not do the due out of megalomania, but we just find the use of the FPS egotistic and obnoxious. That's our Ishtyle!